![]() Insert the red lead into the slot marked “ohm”. You can even use a multimeter for checking certain car engine troubles. If you don’t have a multimeter, invest in one. The first thing you need to do is switch the multimeter to ohms. Incorrect tampering can damage the transformer. It’s best to follow your manufacturer’s instructions. Unscrew and remove electrical covers over the transformer. But it will take some work prior to testing. This is the more accurate of the methods. Good luck on getting your system up and running.Conclusion 2 Methods of Testing a 24V Transformer I have AC, manual over ride on the fan and heat. I jumped "R" and "Rc" on the thermostat base and EVERYTHING WORKS. So I said my prayers and found the jumper. (Hooked up the other way around gave me heat but no AC). I hooked the "R" from the furnace and hooked it to the "Rc" on the thermostat base. I then to the "Lead" or "R" from the added 24 volt transformer to the "R" block. The "C" lead from the added 24 volt transformer goes to the "C" on the thermostat base. The HVAC call out fee is 250 USD so it is more than a new thermostat and it is only 24 V. So we moved to trial and error based on various videos on U-Tube. I said I have a "C" but where does the "Load" or "R" connect. Next adviser said basically the same thing. Electrical work must be done by an experienced HVAC person. First adviser said he could only help me with programming. Seems that they are not really focused on helping us DIYers. Touched "R" to "Y" and the outside condenser went on. ![]() Using the "R" from the furnace and touched it to the "G" and the furnace fan went on. I ran it off the 120V for the furnace so that it is off when the furnace was off. The HON adviser stated I needed to add an additional 24 volt transformer - which I did, a HON AT72D 1683. Much to my surprise, I found out you had to have a "C" terminal. I purchased a Honeywell RTH6500WF for installation. Simple reason is you need to have a complete circuit as you stated. I believe the above "recommendations" are wrong. Do some reading on that end of the system and your success with T-Stat install will be much higher.īear with me on this story. There are many ways to apply HVAC to homes and many manufacturers have their unique methods.ĭo your home work and figure out what kind of furnace, boiler, AC you have. Goal is to have the C to a common or "always energized" power supply at your furnance/boiler, space pac, so on, so forth. This would be when you'd see indvidual RC and RH wires. In some cases, when the furnace is "off" and you're in cooling mode, you may have a separate cooling system with its own dedicated power supply. In a lot of cases, the transformer is used by the complete heating and cooling system - common to both. The stat is now "stealing" power from the 24V source at your furnace. The "C" terminal is COMMON or Neutral back to the power supply on the furnace. WIFI stats need to have power "all the time" to enable the connection to your home WIFI router. When the temperature meets Stat setpoint (stat is satisfied) the circuit opens and you hear another click. When you hear the T-stat click, a relay is closing and the Stat is closing a circuit back to furnace. Typical combination forced air furnace / AC configuration will source power when T-stat "calls for heat or cooling". That said, you do have to be careful and aware that control wiring for home furnance and AC are not intuitive. Contractors don't want DIY to know how this works because it eats into their livelihood.
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